Jerusalem and the three religions of the Abraham

Yesterday we explored Islam, Judaisim and Christianity within the confines of the Old City. We were invited as guests of the Waqf to visit the two very important mosques on the Temple Mount - Al Aqsa and the one we know as the Dome of the rock. It was wonderful to be able to explore these two places as they are generally closed to visitors.

We then went to a beautiful church - St Anne's, that had wonderful acoustics and in the crypt an amazing icon of Anne giving birth to Mary.

And then the Western wall also known as the Wailing wall, where Jews offer prayers.

We ended our day sitting on the steps of the Temple which go back to the time of Jesus.

Journey back to Jerusalem

As we journeyed from Nazareth to Jerusalem we went to the far north of Galilee and around the lake edge. We stopped at Banias Springs, the source of the river Jordan, at the foot of Mt Hebron, in the region of Caesarea Philippi, where we sat and heard the gospel story from Matthew 16, a very profound moment!

We then went and visited Agrippa's palace as mentioned in Acts

But it was probably the drive back to Jerusalem around Lake Galilee that was the most interesting partI because of how close we got to the borders of Lebanon, Syria and Jordan, all enemies of Israel. At some points we were metres away. It was quite safe but still a little unnerving!

Galilee

We've just spent the last three days up in the Galilee region spending time in a variety of places including Nazareth.

Some of the highlights have been visiting some of the ancient towns and villages where Jesus went - Nazareth, Chorazim, Bethsaida, Capernaum, as well as the more Hellenistic towns such as Sepphoris that provide a contrast with the less sophisticated places Jesus preferred to visit. As ruins start to look alike if you don't know what you are looking for I've just put a photo of Chorazim 

and the Galilean countryside (lots of hills!) and the lake itself.

In Nazareth the Basilica of the Annunciation was also stunning with intriguing artwork and a great sense of peace, especially at 8am in the morning before all the tourists arrived! I also had the privilege to preside at the Eucharist at the place we stayed at in Nazareth- Sisters of Nazareth Convent. Very moving!

The desert, the road to Jericho and the river Jordan

Once there was a man traveling from Jerusalem to Jerico... It might just be one of Jesus' parables but in the Judaen desert not far from Jerusalem there is a small dirt road that follows the wadi (water) to Jericho. Beside it is the St George Monastery and above it all we sat and meditated on the story of the 'Good Samaritan'. It was still, peaceful and very hot and when everybody was quiet the only sound were the birds calling across the valley. Maybe because we don't have a true desert in NZ I really like being in that environment, very primal and stark.

After the desert we drove down to one of the lowest places on earth - the river Jordan. And here we dipped our toes in this holy river and reaffirmed our baptismal vows on the site where many thousands have been baptised over the years, and perhaps not this exact spot but where Jesus was baptised by John.

And yes once upon a time there was a lot more water than this but much of it has been siphoned off for irrigation. Like many parts of the world, even in this land of 'milk and honey', we aren't particularly good stewards of what God has given us to look after!

More from Bethlehem

The place that is regarded as the birthplace of Christ since about the 2nd century is the cave below the Church of the Nativity.

The church is being restored so it is hard to get a sense of it however the main reason you are there is to line up and see the presumed place of Jesus' birth, marked by a star.

And opposite is where Mary laid him in a manger.

Probably due to the crowds and ornate nature of the caves I didn't find it particularly moving but I think that is okay as it is the story more than the place that resonates for me.

Interestingly In the cave next door is where Jerome wrote the western version of the bible.

Journey to Bethlehem

Yesterday we travelled to Bethlehem via a couple of intriguing sites. As we are looking at the gospel according to Matthew during this time at the college we went to one of the key sites of King Herod - Herodian. A place he built in the shape of a hill as a place he could go to if he was in danger in Jerusalem but also his final resting place. It certainly showed the extent of his wealth and power as it was built from nothing and is one so his 'smaller' projects!

After a show of power from someone 2000 years ago we then went to Bethlehem and saw some contemporary examples from the state of Israel. There is a place called Rachel's wall that was built to cut off Palestinians from both their arable land and also an important place for Muslims - where Rachel (mother of Benjamin, O.T.) is thought to be buried. On the wall are some moving examples of Palestinian graffiti.. We said prayers for peace for the women of both Israel and Palestine here.

And then on the way to the Church of the Nativity we went past a Palestinian refugee camp that houses 15,000 people. Some of it has been here since 1947, so it is of a more permanent building material than one might imagine.

Well I've finally arrived in Jerusalem!

Well I've finally arrived in Jerusalem! The place where I am staying is an Anglican centre - St Georges College. A beautiful place not far from the old city (photos later). I'm still trying to get my head around the place as every building is a sandstone colour and all jumbled up. Even driving through the West Bank isn't obvious until you see the odd wall snaking through the countryside and there are clusters of houses on the top of hills and have trees (Israeli homes) and not so well maintained houses at the bottom (Palestinian) whose access to water is more limited due to Israeli restrictions.

On an introductory tour we had a great view of the old city and then wandered through it exiting at the Damascus gate. Next stop Bethlehem!

Return to Istanbul

I've had a great 2 days reconnecting with Istanbul, visiting the key sights and some slightly off the beaten track. Of course some of the most well know places are Aya Sofia with its mix of Chrisrian and Islamic iconography which I thought was quite well done...

I also visited the Blue Mosque, known locally as Sultanemeht Mosque, which was also quite beautiful...

My guide also suggested visiting another set of religious buildings and so yesterday I visited the Patriarchy Ferner (sp?) which is where the Greek Orthodox Patriarch resides, a very peaceful church and I was lucky to find them at prayer. I did appreciate going somewhere that wasn't just a museum. I also visited the Chora Church - amazing mosaics and frescoes, unfortunately it was mostly closed but still interesting.

And finally one of the main mosques in Turkey - Eyup Sultan Mosque. Another place of prayer to finish my trip to Turkey. Now onto Jerusalem!

Fairy Chimneys

Today I head back to Istanbul but I couldn't go before sending a couple of photos of the geological feature that probably defines Cappadocia- the Fairy Chimneys. They aren't due to the volcanic nature of the region but are rock formations worn down over time, harder rock on the surface and softer underneath. 

You can tell that I'm not a geologist! The last one is slightly different and I'll leave you to guess what it might remind you of.

Goreme - cave churches

One of the reasons I wanted to come to Cappadocia was to see the Christian influence in the region and some of the early churches. Well one of the best places to see this is at the Goreme Open Air museum or more accurately the cave churches and the church community that existed there from at least the 4th century to the 15th. 

The Christian community included families as well as monks, nuns, priests and students. It was in a sense a missionary college sending out people to evangelise the region and further afield. Not much remains except there was aroma that they think was both a refectory and classroom, a long table and benches carved out of the stone.

There were many small chapels and churches in the complex (many of which we weren't allowed to photograph but I have managed a few, one of which is an official photo.) some had simple frescoes and others that were later more elaborate ones.

Cappadocia cont'd...

Today I'll visit some of the early Churches and the places where St Basil and St Gregory roamed. I already have a sense of the desert places and the fairly basic existence of the Christians who lived here from the 1st - 15th centuries, see below for photos of the caves they dug out of the rock and the local landscape.


The last photo is of the old and the 'new' Cappadocia, although since the whole of Cappadocia is a national park and heritage listed you need special permission to build. I say to any Aucklanders sell up and for a mere $500,000 you too can have a 10 room set of caves!

Hot air ballooning over Cappadocia!

After a very early morning start (5am) I went hot air ballooning. 

It is something that I have never done before and this seemed like a great time to do it. It was really great and had wonderful views over the countryside and of course the myriad other balloons in the air, see photos below. I think that we went as high as 600 metres and the trip lasted for an hour.

On a side note I feel like I am either in a silent movie or at least a silent retreat as for the last week I have met only 2 other people who speak English, one of whom is the current tour guide and the other on the boat. Other nationalities have included - Swiss, Portuguese, Turkish, and Uruguay. Most of the time okay but sometimes a bit lonely, so it is helpful sending this blog!